KNL Dragon - paper to model size ratio.

[Sadarac]

could somebody tell me what the paper size to model size ratio is for the KNL dragon?

[Zoraz]

I'm not sure, but i think the finished model is roughly 1/8 the size of the starting paper. I used a piece of 9 3/4 in. kami and had no problems.

[Sadarac]

well i might need something larger. 6in is WAYYYYYY to small for it

[origami-artist-galen]

I only folded the model once and I used 6," I can't remember exactly how large the finished product was, but I estimate 2.5" from head to tail.

[origami-artist-galen]

Hey, I just folded a new one. It's just under 3 1/2 inches long from head to tail, so the ratio is something like .57.

[OrigamiGianluca]

could somebody tell me what the paper size to model size ratio is for the KNL dragon?

It is a strange question, since I can see from your signature that you have Lang's ODS.
So why don't you simply fold it? It is not so long and difficult...

[Sadarac]

yeah but i didnt see a size ratio anywhere in the book. and its not long or hard but im not good enough to do it with small paper:( (remember that ive only been serious about origami for a few months)

[OrigamiGianluca]

If you never try you never get.

And remember that mistakes are important as well succes for improving.

[angrydemon]

6 inches is the largest size of paper you can possibly find??? You know that "origami paper" isn't the only paper in the world that can be used to fold origami right?

[Sadarac]

yeah. but i stink at cutting square paper. its hard for me even with my exacto knife.

[unknownfolder]

What exactly is your technique for cutting to square because I have no problems cutting copy pare to square using safety scissors.

[Zoraz]

yeah. but i stink at cutting square paper. its hard for me even with my exacto knife.

i find scissors or knives to be very innacurate when cutting paper to square. I fold back and forth along the crease multiple times, then lick both sides of the crease. This makes it really easy to tear. it leaves a 'fuzzy' edge, but that usually isnt a problem in models that can be made with copy paper.

[Sadarac]

maybe its just the paper. its a foil wrapping paper. or my blade might not be sharp enough

[origamimasterjared]

i find scissors or knives to be very innacurate when cutting paper to square. I fold back and forth along the crease multiple times, then lick both sides of the crease. This makes it really easy to tear. it leaves a 'fuzzy' edge, but that usually isnt a problem in models that can be made with copy paper.

That may be the worst possible way to "cut" paper. If you're going to do fold-and-cut, the best way is to make the crease, then sharpen it, with a spoon or finger nail. Then just tear along it by putting the paper flat on a table in front of you, with the peak of the crease up, placing your hands firmly down on either side of the crease, and pulling apart. This works much better than licking, which causes both distortion of the paper, and weakening along a much larger area than necessary, which leads to inaccuracy.

What I do is to fold along the crease, make it sharp, and then take an 8 inch slicer through it. Works pretty well, even for very fibrous light or thick papers like mulberry single sheets or backcoats.

[Zoraz]

The only reason i use that method, is because it is quick, relatively silent (for folding during a lecture), and when I am folding with copy paper its just an easy fold, practice, or a doodle. For serious folding(which i havent acutally done, but will soon once i get MC) i would cut it in a more accurate way, like with a knife and a straight edge or something. Sorry if my statement was ambiguous.