I want to lift both walls by making the two 90° valley folds. That makes a 3D corner, ¿right?
My question is this: what options can you think of to lock both walls once they're lifted? The conditions are the following: you can't reduce the size of the walls nor of the floor, and you can't use more sheets of paper.
I've been able to offer three solutions: two using that small square in the upper left corner exclusively to lock both walls (common box and box with corner cobras). My other solution is mixing the corner square with part of the wall and then locking the model using the very wall (box with side blades). ¿What options can you think of?
Hmmm.. I would try a rabbit-ear type thing with the walls, making them stand up perpendicular. Then take that extra paper, squash fold it, and petal fold it?
Nepfreak wrote:Hmmm.. I would try a rabbit-ear type thing with the walls, making them stand up perpendicular. Then take that extra paper, squash fold it, and petal fold it?
I got it ! That's a good idea... thanks Nepfreak. It's a pity it can't lock the corner completely, right? If I did get what you meant, the upper part remains unlocked.
Hey Gerardo. Try rabbit earring towards the inside of the model instead of the outside. Then squash it, but instead of petal folding, simply fold the point over the top. This will hold pretty well. If you need a picture let me know.
Thanks LeafPiece. Did you really mean a rabbit ear? I think you meant fold the small square inside, turning it into a doubled layered right triangle. Am I good so far? Then squash it into a small kite base and fold the tip outward turning it into a tall triangle. Did I get it?
If so, why is it better to fold it inside with the tip out and not the other way around? Does it make a difference?
Hmmmmm. Is a reverse rabbit ear still a rabbit ear? I don't know, lol. In any case, I think you got it.
I tried doing it both ways, and this way seems to hold better. The reason would be that the open end of your kite base is stretched around the outside corner. The stretching makes it a tighter model.
Even though you don't need it, I went ahead and took a picture anyway. I folded a box in order to show the inside and outside better.
LeafPiece wrote:Hmmmmm. Is a reverse rabbit ear still a rabbit ear? I don't know, lol. In any case, I think you got it.
I tried doing it both ways, and this way seems to hold better. The reason would be that the open end of your kite base is stretched around the outside corner. The stretching makes it a tighter model.
Even though you don't need it, I went ahead and took a picture anyway. I folded a box in order to show the inside and outside better.
Thanks for the solution. It reminds me of the common box.
If you can, please help me with my question in my following general response .
I know you said that the size of the walls can't be reduced, but I still think that the "un-unfoldable" box corners by Ed Sullivan (I think) is a terrific , durable, and nearly permanently 90° solution!
dinogami wrote:I know you said that the size of the walls can't be reduced, but I still think that the "un-unfoldable" box corners by Ed Sullivan (I think) is a terrific , durable, and nearly permanently 90° solution!
You can really lock a corner by folding down the walls. That's why I want to look for other options. Would you know how to make a pocket and a tip?
Still... I really don't know that box and I was curious. I tried to browse for a photo but I didn't found one. Can you show it to me?
Gerardo wrote:You can really lock a corner by folding down the walls. That's why I want to look for other options. Would you know how to make a pocket and a tip?
Nothing really durable (read: doesn't have a loose end that unfolds easily) springs to mind, though there are several ways to make weaker corners.
Still... I really don't know that box and I was curious. I tried to browse for a photo but I didn't found one. Can you show it to me?
I'll try and remember to do this later; I don't happen to have a good camera handy at the moment!
I only thought of one very simple method. Hopefully it's not another thing you already thought of, as apparently I can't visualize the solutions in your original post very well, lol.
So you could start by creating the double layered right triangle on the inside of the model again. Flatten it on the side of either wall (no squashing, just pushing it to one side). Fold the triangle in half (hypotenuse to inside corner). Fold the resulting tip over the top. This tip will actually be the pocket. The outer wall has a right angled tip that you can tuck into that pocket.
This is harder to explain than the other solution. Let me know if you want a picture.
LeafPiece wrote:Hmmmmm. Is a reverse rabbit ear still a rabbit ear? I don't know, lol. In any case, I think you got it.
I tried doing it both ways, and this way seems to hold better. The reason would be that the open end of your kite base is stretched around the outside corner. The stretching makes it a tighter model.
Even though you don't need it, I went ahead and took a picture anyway. I folded a box in order to show the inside and outside better.
Are diagrams for the box shown in this picture available somewhere? I like the look of it and am too much of a beginner to figure it out...
! That's a good idea... thanks Nepfreak. It's a pity it can't lock the corner completely, right? If I did get what you meant, the upper part remains unlocked.
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