Satoshi Kamiya - Ryu Zin (CP)

[Froy]

The best is to use a glue stick and overlap one square of the grid. If the paper is very thin it won't affect the folding.

[Harpseal]

Ah, but the glue's thickness itself may affect the folding!.........

[Froy]

Nope, and in my own experience I have done this twice.

[Carsen]

I've tried to do the test for the tail of ryu zin 2.1. I printed out the CP and folded it correctly. But when I tried to do it without the the printed lines, the diagonal lines for the scales did not line up with the very bottom vertical lines.
Here is the crease pattern with important lines marked so it can be compared to mine.


Here is my paper. The blue lines are shifted over by 1/2 of a grid block to form the angles that are in the CP, but as I said, it is shifted over which does not work. The dashed line is the same as the one I made on the CP, so you can compare it. If you look at the pencil markings to the left of the pen, it is in the correct position, but it does not line up with the very bottom lines. Finally, on the second diagonal line from the very right, it should meet at the edge of the paper not a 1/2 grid block away (the correct position is the purple line in the CP above).

Can anyone tell me what I do to fix it?
Thanks!

[Harpseal]

Possible unrevised possibilities:
Your printer is on shrink to fit (sometimes distorts things)
Your grid went wrong (not likely)
Everything needs expanding by 1/2 a grid block in that area

This was probably all wrong, but there is a 1/100000000 chance it might have helped.

[Kafar]

I think you made mistake in counting

as you can see between the bottom and top, there are 3 units of scales, 1 unit of brake and 3 units of scales again - in total 7, on your picture I can see you have only 6 units, thats why this doesn't line up

[kareshi]

The horizontal line on the far right - where the scale pleats meet in the middle - is not preexisting from the grid. They are supposed to meet halway into one unit. You've got them set to meet along a line exactly 4 units up.

I've been keeping notes in a graph notebook while working it out - I'm up to 45 pages! But it's been really helpful to set excerpts of the CP onto a graph so I can count units easier.

[Carsen]

Thanks, I figured it out. The grid for the scale section was missing one block, so I redid it with an extra block and it worked.

[Harpseal]

Good. However, i did fail at trying to help.

[Harpseal]

Ryujinn 1.2 is on the 1st arf url. go there to watch the slideshow thingy (sort of)

[Carsen]

I asked this before but it was in an edit and I don't think anyone saw it. I'm planning on making the 2.1 and will use Kraft Paper. The two options I have is a 24" and 36" roll, both with a gsm about 55. I'm going to connect 2 rectangles to make either a 48" or 72" square. Which one should I get?
I also have a question about the quality of the paper. Under the description it says that it is made from 100% recycled fibers. Do all of your Kraft papers say that and is it okay to use?
The last question I have is what should I do to connect the paper. Froy was saying a glue stick would work. I know mc is the best way, but I don't have any and would have to order it. And would scotch or masking tape work?
Thanks. I've just been asking a lot of questions. Hopefully I can contribute to this forum, and not just ask for help.

[Falcifer]

About kraft paper; I've only used it a couple of times and not for extremely intricate things. Lang's Black Forest Cuckoo Clock and Kawahata's Yoda. For the clock I used a single, long piece. It was fine, but kraft paper (the kind I've used) tends to have short fibers, which don't hold creases very well. I ended up using some water and small pegs to keep the leaves together and shape the pinecones properly. So precreasing kraft paper is tricky. You probably won't get the sharp, defined creases you need/want.

I made a lifesize Yoda, so I used masking tape to connect three pieces of kraft and then used PVA to cover one side in green tissue paper. Still didn't hold creases as well as other paper, and Yoda is less complex so the use of masking tape didn't interfere so much.

I would say that using masking tape (assuming that you line up the sheets instead of overlapping them) will introduce less thickness than overlapping the paper and gluing it. You do then have the masking tape visible.

Larger paper will naturally make things slightly easier. At least in terms of delicate folds. It might be slightly more difficult managing large paper, though.

Getting a larger roll does mean that you have larger paper available at a later date.

[Raptorex55]

This type of Kraft is exceptional : http://www.origami-shop.com/en/origamip ... -1703.html
It will require more gluing/taping but, as it is stated, this is a "Ryujin Pack"

[Carsen]

About kraft paper; I've only used it a couple of times and not for extremely intricate things. Lang's Black Forest Cuckoo Clock and Kawahata's Yoda. For the clock I used a single, long piece. It was fine, but kraft paper (the kind I've used) tends to have short fibers, which don't hold creases very well. I ended up using some water and small pegs to keep the leaves together and shape the pinecones properly. So precreasing kraft paper is tricky. You probably won't get the sharp, defined creases you need/want.

I made a lifesize Yoda, so I used masking tape to connect three pieces of kraft and then used PVA to cover one side in green tissue paper. Still didn't hold creases as well as other paper, and Yoda is less complex so the use of masking tape didn't interfere so much.

I'm going to go for the larger paper. 36" paper is an extra foot bigger than what I have, so that'll be a bonus. I have a whole summer, so I can take my time making precise folds on the large paper. About the Kraft, I've read more than 40 pages on this topic (started reading not even a week ago), and many people have used Kraft, so I'm going to go for it. No doubt the origami-shop's paper is great, but it will take way too long to arrive.
And I have one more question: If I draw lines on the paper with pencil will it show up on the finished model?

[Tymalous]

If I'm not wrong there is no color change, so if you'd draw em on the back it shouldn't show up. You'd have to reverse all creases though. Maybe it's just easier to erase all of the lines.