Satoshi Kamiya - Ryu Zin (CP)

[kareshi]

Between 2.1s, 64s, and 3.5s, I've made 12 Ryujins, all from full squares. Now I'm making a lower half/ upper half 3.5.
WHY didn't I do this earlier? I've never had a large space to work, no wonder my first 3.5 took 68 hours. I haven't felt like tearing my brain out once yet!

[Jonybb]

I don't even know if I will go for the half-cp method again. Sure, it simplifies the collapsing, but I can't get over the fact that this model was originally made with a single square. Besides, I like challenges. What do you guys think?

[kareshi]

Ryujin's not the best model for purists, considering all the wires and glue involved in the end.
Just be sure you've made up your own mind about how you want to do it. But I think it's a fairly common way to do it if you have limited room to work. I think there are many half-CP Ryujins on flickr that just don't say that's what they are.

[Froy]

The real challenge about the Ryu jin 3.5 is not in how is it folded. You can fold all the piece apart and then put them together. You can do it by 2 half CP, etc...

The thing is that you have to do the scales! That won't take you a bit of time. It needs a lot of patience and dedication. That is the real challenge.

Admit it, the base is not that hard to fold or collapse.

[Jonybb]

Agreed, Froy ; the basic structure of this model is nothing too complex, just boxpleating. The only parts that are even remotely hard to collapse are the legs and the head. That's why I'm practicing the scales especially atm.

[topsu]

Depends on the person I think. Scales were not fun but once you got it down it was kind of like knitting - very straightforward. The other parts however took lots of time and several test folds (for me) to figure out especially where there were transition parts and such.

[Joe Ruperd]

I finally got the correct paper! I was going to do it two days ago but I came down with the worst stomach flu I have ever had. The only problem is that it is 30" wide. I planned on doing the half cp method, but would a roughly 60" square be large enough? I know most people go with a whole foot larger square.

[PauliusOrigami]

150 cm should be pretty much ok, Joe.

[Jonybb]

Depends on the thickness. People have folded this model with < 1m paper, and it worked out because they didn't get screwed at the necktwist, shaping etc.

[Joe Ruperd]

Its decently thin. Its about double tissue thin, maybe? I think I will be okay though. I even found a cp with mountain/valley lines. How much of an overlap did you guys do, and is it noticeable? Did you do it horizontally or vertically?

[Dj origami]

That's always the hardest thing for me to decide...I've been only folding 2.0 , 2.1 ,3.1' s so far and I was attaching 2 sheets that are like 100 cm*150 cm and the other one is 50 cm*150cm...because of that, overlap is not in the horizontal book fold, that means that if you connect it horizontally you might have overlap at shoulder scales or transition units which is kinda bad if your paper is not thin enough and if your glue didn't glue that part nicely, If that's the case I suggest you to make overlap vertically ... Overlap should be about 5 mm-1.5 cm .

[Jonybb]

If you overlap vertically, you don't have to worry about the middle of the dragon being thicker, but it might interfere with scaleshaping etc. Doing it horizontally is probably the safest tho. By the way, where did you get the cp?

[Joe Ruperd]

If you overlap vertically, you don't have to worry about the middle of the dragon being thicker, but it might interfere with scaleshaping etc. Doing it horizontally is probably the safest tho. By the way, where did you get the cp?

Okay thanks man. Which way did you do it? I got the image on google images. It was on someone's flickr originally I think.

[mikaorigami]

I did not overlap paper and used masking tape on the side of the paper that would be inside. There was tape across where the scales are made the scales 2 or 3 times i think. I was really worried it would make the scales messy or hard to fold, but even with kraft paper it was of very little significance. On the outside of the model it is impossible to tell where the tape went and some of the scales with tape turned out really good because the masking tape was stiff and held creases very well.

[Joe Ruperd]

That's always the hardest thing for me to decide...I've been only folding 2.0 , 2.1 ,3.1' s so far and I was attaching 2 sheets that are like 100 cm*150 cm and the other one is 50 cm*150cm...because of that, overlap is not in the horizontal book fold, that means that if you connect it horizontally you might have overlap at shoulder scales or transition units which is kinda bad if your paper is not thin enough and if your glue didn't glue that part nicely, If that's the case I suggest you to make overlap vertically ... Overlap should be about 5 mm-1.5 cm .

Just saw this. Okay thanks, very helpful. Are you sure such a small over-lap? I will take your word though.