Satoshi Kamiya - Ryu Zin (CP)

Froy · Post by **Froy** » November 5th, 2009, 8:50 pm

Wow that Ryu zin shines like a piece of gold.

Ragnorax · Post by **Ragnorax** » November 5th, 2009, 9:23 pm

Wow those are some nice Ryu-zins

Great job on them

Jonnycakes · Post by **Jonnycakes** » November 5th, 2009, 10:29 pm

Great job on the Ryuzin! Did you paint it or apply some coating after you folded it, or does the paper just look that way already?

Jared-is this number 1?

insaneorigami · Post by **insaneorigami** » November 5th, 2009, 10:46 pm

Agreed! Excellent model, and great first post; welcome to the forum.

Also, Galen, gratz on the 3.5! It looks great

origamimasterjared · November 5th, 2009, 10:59 pm

Haha, Jon. Oh, God no. If I remember correctly, Shuki's first post was number 1.

dobradordedragoes · November 6th, 2009, 3:00 am

origamimasterjared, insaneorigami, Froy, Artist-Galen, and all of you, it's a great honor to me being welcome by you guys, it took me around two months to reach that far, and answering the Jonnycakes question, the paper has it's golden color already, I bought it at a flourist store

Thanks everybody, cause your work has being such an inspiration to me, congratulation. Froy, specially yours, looks so unbelieveble perfect, CONGRATZ (and sorry by my English I am brazilian).

BUGguy · Post by **BUGguy** » November 6th, 2009, 5:15 am

AWESOME RYUZIN dobradordedragoes!!!
I can't seem how to get the extra spikes on the side of the head because when i folded it, it only had three spikes.

plastgeek · Post by **plastgeek** » November 9th, 2009, 11:25 pm

Hi, I'm going to be trying out 2.1, and I just have a few questions before starting. I'm pretty sure some of these have been answered, but could you please bear with me?
1) I know that this has been covered at one point in the thread, but for the life of me, I can't find it. How do you guys attatch the multiple sheets together when making it?

2) I'm going to be using Kafar's CP with the mountain/valley folds. Am I correct in assuming that blue is valley when the paper is color-side down?

3) I am going to be using two-toned paper. Will the second color show up anywhere?

4) The finished size is going to be a bit smaller than the original length, right?

5) Last question: Do you guys collapse the head, or the scales (just the pleats) first?
Thank you

Zoraz · Post by **Zoraz** » November 10th, 2009, 12:15 am

I can help you with the last two
4. The finished model is a little less than 2/3 the length of one side of the paper
5. I have always collapsed the scales before the head, just so the paper is already in position to start the head.

Kijjakarn · Post by **Kijjakarn** » November 10th, 2009, 2:01 am

For the first question, you can use Methyl Cellulose to attach paper.

Froy · Post by **Froy** » November 10th, 2009, 2:18 am

plastgeek wrote:Hi, I'm going to be trying out 2.1, and I just have a few questions before starting. I'm pretty sure some of these have been answered, but could you please bear with me?
1) I know that this has been covered at one point in the thread, but for the life of me, I can't find it. How do you guys attatch the multiple sheets together when making it?

2) I'm going to be using Kafar's CP with the mountain/valley folds. Am I correct in assuming that blue is valley when the paper is color-side down?

3) I am going to be using two-toned paper. Will the second color show up anywhere?

4) The finished size is going to be a bit smaller than the original length, right?

5) Last question: Do you guys collapse the head, or the scales (just the pleats) first?
Thank you

1) Example:

Let's say that you have 9 small squares of paper. Divide them to 28ths and remove one unit on each side, you will have 27x27 but more important you will have one side where the first fold is mountain and the last one valley.

Now you can glue the saquares overlaping one unit and you wont have to change any crease direction. ( That give you a paper with a 80x 80 grid )

3) Nop, no color change.

4) As the conection head-scales is not very complex you could star colapsing by the head, legs and scales at the end. Fold both sides of the head the same then when you fold the scales that conects with the head pull out the paper from the horn to finish the scales patern.

plastgeek · Post by **plastgeek** » November 10th, 2009, 9:51 pm

The 2x and 4x thickness created in places by the overlap wouldn't affect the end model?

insaneorigami · Post by **insaneorigami** » November 10th, 2009, 10:15 pm

The 2x thickness shouldn't be a problem with thin paper, as it doesn't get in the way much. The 4x thicknes is pretty much only in 4 places if you use nine squares. So no, it shouldn't be a big problem unless you are using thick-ish paper

Froy · Post by **Froy** » November 10th, 2009, 10:21 pm

plastgeek wrote:The 2x and 4x thickness created in places by the overlap wouldn't affect the end model?

4x4 in one of the toes on the front and rear legs to be precise, but you can remove 2 squares from the not visible.

That is what I did.

2x2 is only in sacales.

origamimasterjared · November 11th, 2009, 12:31 am

You can always go to 27ths directly

The Origami Forum

Satoshi Kamiya - Ryu Zin (CP)

Thanks Everybody for the comments (...)